Archive for March, 2009

In Uncertain Times, Invest In Yourself

March 12th, 2009 No comments

We’re living in difficult times. Job losses are large and wide spread. Whether you’re currently on the interview circuit or you’re simply trying to keep the job you have, polo shirts and khaki pants simply won’t cut it. Neither will cheap, off the rack suits or suits you paid more for that don’t fit you properly.

A quality suit that will last and maintain its integrity over time is one of the smartest investments a man can make. Unfortunately, the overwhelming majority of suits available are simply not constructed well enough to offer years of regular use.

You may feel as though you saved money by taking advantage of that special in the Sunday paper offering suits for $199 a piece, but how well will that suit hold up after a year of dry cleanings? However, there are custom made, bespoke suits made on venerable Savile Row that have been handed down for generations!

How is that possible? Here’s the all important difference…

Between the cost of manufacturing and multiple levels of profit taking, mainstream suit makers cut corners to increase revenues. This is the reason 90% of suits sold today, even at the top designer level, use a quick and inexpensive method of constructing the suit called “fusing”. Essentially the pieces of the suit are assembled using a hot glue. Though it’s certainly convenient from a business stand point, there are many disadvantages to wearing or owning a suit made in this manner kamagra oral jelly prix.

The glue introduces a stiffness to the fabric preventing the jacket from conforming to your body and flowing with your movements (the hallmark of a well made suit). The glues also repel water, adding further discomfort as the cloth will not breath properly (if you sweat even just a little, you may end up sticking to your jacket). The long term longevity of the suit is effected, as the glues are known to breakdown and bubble up through the fabric over time – symptoms of this can occur after only a couple of dry cleanings. You’re paying a premium for a garment that is simply not built to last.

Alternatively, in bespoke tailoring we construct fully canvassed suits in which a floating canvas lies between the lining and the fabric, attached with hundreds of stitches. This stitched construction is the mark of a beautifully crafted suit. It will maintain the integrity of the fabric allowing it to breath, drape properly, and offer a natural look and fit. It will also extend the life of a garment profoundly.

In this economy, every dollar counts. Quality, craftsmanship, and durability are of the utmost importance. When you invest in a great custom made suit, you can rest assured it will be hanging in your closet for years.

You will make many memories while wearing this suit and it would not be unusual if the mere act of wearing it brought opportunities to you that may otherwise have never presented themselves… perhaps even life changing events. You can’t put a price on that. Of course, quality will always remain the best bargain of all.

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Know Your “Silhouette” for the Best Fitting Suit You’ll Own

March 11th, 2009 No comments

Though “silhouette” is a term you don’t hear often, it remains one of the most important aspects of custom clothes. Even a rudimentary understanding of what I’m about to share with you will provide a firm grasp of which styles and details will help you look razor sharp. First I’ll cover the basics, then get into specific recommendations that will give you the inside track.

Silhouette, is most simply defined as the cut and shape of a custom suit. Generally speaking, the three classic, time tested silhouettes are the American, the British, and the Italian. In recent years, the stylistic differences between them have blurred. That said, to provide a foundation of understanding, we’ll set the stage with a brief intro to each tradition.

The American “sack” suit was introduced by Brooks Brothers over a century ago and is essentially single-breasted with a boxy shape and shoulders with little or no padding. This style was updated by Paul Stuart mid-century, which tailored the jacket closer to the torso and added padding to the shoulders to affect a flattering V-shape. This is how the American “silhouette” evolved.

The British (Savile Row) and Italian styled cuts offered further shaping and modification. Though the tailors on venerable Savile Row purvey their own “house” styles which they are known for, the common elements include light padding in the shoulders, which are slightly sloped, and a waist that conforms to the body for an hourglass effect. Side vents allow one to place their hands in their slacks pockets with comfort and without creating a bulging look in the jacket when doing so. Should you sit down with your jacket buttoned, you will not feel constricted.

The difference between the British and Italian suits is subtle – something that you won’t see as much as feel. The Italian fabrics are lighter in weight and color with a bit of sheen to them. The Italian suit has well padded shoulders, high cut arm holes, flapless pockets, is a bit more form fitting in the torso and is often completely ventless.

So this begs the question, which silhouette is right for you?

The silhouette that will make you look your best is the one in which every part of the suit flows with your body. This is why it is hard to buy a suit retail and enjoy a good fit. When you have a custom suit made, you can choose your silhouette generic levitra canada. A good tailor will look at your shape and instinctively know how to make a suit that fits you well on every part of your body.

Here’s how that works…

The positioning of the buttons on the jacket should be dictated by the length of your torso. Higher up on the jacket if your torso is short, lower if your torso is long.

The width of the lapels creates an effect which will flatter your shoulders. Thin lapels are best if you have broad shoulders. If you do not, wider lapels can create the appearance of them.

For someone with a larger seat, high vents provide better definition and flatter your shape. For someone with more of a flat seat, a center vent or no vent will look best.

When you’re making a custom shirt, go with a higher collar if you have a long neck. Go with a lower collar if you have a short neck. The lower cut will give the illusion of height and vice versa. For the collar spread, opt for a narrow spread if you have a broad face, and select a broader spread if your face is thin.

With custom slacks, the general rule of thumb is if you want pleats you should also have cuffs. No pleats… no cuffs. If you are slim hipped, go for a more tapered leg. If you are not, a wider leg will offer the more flattering silhouette.

All of these elements (and others, I need to keep some secrets) work together to create an impression. It doesn’t matter what type of body you have, there is a custom silhouette that will be best for you. Though most people will never know or think about the subtleties that go into crafting a perfectly fitting custom suit, I can make this guarantee – they will notice the results!

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